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La Ruta de los Conquistadores
2003

"One of the most difficult athletic events on the planet"
[yeah, whatever...]

La Ruta

Funny how things turn out. 10+ years ago I used to race bicycles. Then I got married, had a son, got divorced, went back to school and changed careers. Turns out I still love bikes. More than just about anything. Thank goodness I never totally stopped riding during that decade. In fact, in the last few years, I put in some long days and got reasonably fit again. Then a friend begged me to do a race with him (mostly for his benefit I suspect - he just wanted some company). I did the race and felt okay. So I did another. And another. Then I tried my hand at the track again and that went okay too. Now I'm looking at racing in 2004 (as much as my parenting schedule permits) with guarded optimism and the enthusiasm of a newby.

As the summer wore on, two friends and I were (jokingly) trading ideas of impossible things to do on a bike. We entertained ourselves by postulating doing silly things like RAAM, the Iditabike and this La Ruta thing in Costa Rica... Somehow, we ended up talking ourselves into La Ruta.

So, as panic stepped in I started to wonder how to get fit for this adventure. Being so late in the fall, long road rides were out of the question. Not knowing what we would encounter, some sort of 'all-over' fitness seemed just the ticket. Then another friend in a spinning class told me about this other fitness class in the morning (Boot Camp) and it turns out the instructor for THAT class also was going to teach UAT and by the way, wouldn't I like to give it a try? Okay, and so here I am. Core fitness a-plenty, cycling fitness, uh, not so much as I'd like...

Martin's La Ruta Journal

La Ruta Profile

DAY 1
From the Pacific to the Central Valley
Distance: 130 km aprox.
Elevation: 0-1200 meters above the sea level
Climate: Tropical dry 30-35 C
Start: Puntarenas (city in the Pacific coast) [Current Weather]
Finish: San Jose (Capital of Costa Rica)
Terrain: pavement 35%, gravel 65%
DAY 2
From San Jose to Turrialba (city near Irazu Volcano)
Distance: 120 km aprox.
Elevation: 1200-3000 meters above the sea level
Climate: 5-8 C expect wind and rain. Be prepared for drastic climatic changes this day, cold and hypothermia might be a problem.
Start: San Jose [Current Weather]
Finish: Turrialba (city near Irazu Volcano)
Terrain: pavement 20, volcano rocks and ash 20%, very technical down hill 30%, very steep uphills 30%
DAY 3
From Turrialba to Matina (Caribbean Coast)
Distance: 160 km aprox.
Elevation: 2700-0 meters above the sea level
Climate: Tropical wet, very hot and humid.
Start: city of Turrialba [Current Weather]
Finish: Matina (Caribbean Coast)
Terrain: pavement 35%, gravel roads 65%

Day -1
In no particular order, here is what I have seen so far in costa Rica:

  • It's warmer than in Seattle... It was about 50 when I left Seattle, 60 when I got to LA later that night, 72 when we landed in Guadalajara and 75 when we got to San Jose at 8:30 am. By 10 it was at least 85. And yes, I'm pink. Could not help it. Good thing I remembered the aloe gel! [as opposed to sun block, right? I know, I know...]
  • Lane dividers are purely decorative. Cars just kinda 'flow' from place to place. Motorcycles use the shoulder to pass cars, pedestrians vie for superiority on the roads with cars and it seems totally random who the cops pull over as (almost) everyone is breaking the law.
  • This is a LAME country to ride a bicycle. On the road anyway.
  • The roads suck! Not only are many dirt, but HUGE chunks of pavement are just plain missing in many places. Only the newest, freshest pavement is in good shape. And those new roads have no shoulder or lane dividers. Oh well, one can't get greedy I suppose.
  • At night, liberal use is made of the high beam switch. It means get the hell out of my way.
  • All the (young) men use loads of hair products. That's cool...
  • All the women wear tight clothes and show off their midriff. That's also mostly cool... [Note I didn't specify 'young' this time. Okay, and it's not ALL, but I'm trying to give you my impression]
  • I went bungee jumping today:
    http://www.tropicalbungee.com/pag_english/eng_01_frames.html
    What a blast! It was just five of us. The driver, two jump masters and two clients. They include a video tape of your jump for no extra so I have an awesome video of me doing this perfect swan off of an 80 m bridge. I have only done this once before in my life (10+ years ago in NZ) and although I was still VERY nervous, this other guy and I jumped right away and we both looked just great.
  • On the way to the jump, we drove past all kinds of fruit stands on the side of the highway. And we got these really interesting, green guava fruit at one stand. They were really firm but tasted good. It was like biting into an apple only a different flavor...
  • Downtown San Jose is NOT designed for cars. All these buses stop to pick up people on super narrow streets and instantly the roads are jammed and gridlock ensues. This lasts about 3 or 4 hours and then it's back to the usual mayhem that reigns here.
  • There are two streets in downtown that are for peds only. Very good idea if you ask me. Each block has about 5,000 shops crammed into it. Everything from a motorcycle repair shop to some place that sells sexy underwear to a fruit stand to a watch shop. And there is also the poor, homeless person sifting through the trash behind the watch shop.
  • I'm using the Spanish version of windows XP which is kinda cool. 'notepad' is called 'bloc de notas'. The start button is the 'inicio' button. the back button on my browser is the 'atras' button. 'untitled' is 'sin titulo', but I digress...
  • I'm wiped out! I left Seattle at 7 pm, didn't sleep much on the flights, got here at 9 am and have had a full day so far. Better sleep tonight.
  • We are two hours ahead of Seattle here. Just like Central Time.
  • At the airport, I met a Mavic mechanic that works the Tour de France (and has done 15 tours!!!) who was just coming back from the Crocodile Trophy in AUS so we chatted about that and Phil Anderson (who was in the Crocodile Trophy this year) and this race. His only words were, 'It's hard'. Thanks bro, I suspect it will be...
  • I saw a Spanish team all in their matching kits go out for a last training ride today. I was siting on a bench outside the hotel lobby eating malted milk balls waiting for my bungee bus to show up. Made me feel kinda fat and pathetic. [weak grin]
  • This other bungee client (a 22 year old guy from Jerusalem who was fresh out of the military and seeing the world) requested that the driver drop us off at a good, local eatery. So we ended up at this fantastic place! It was all wood. Wood floors, tables, benches, counters, bar and there was tons of food hanging from the ceiling. Onions, bananas, etc. And next to each table was a canvas sack of carrots or sweet potatoes or cabbage or something. We ordered our food and then the lights went out. The place lost all its power. Not to fear, out came all these candles and soon so did our food and we were eating by candle light. It was almost a drag when the lights came back on. I had this fantastic dish of coleslaw, rice, black beans, cheese, an egg and fried banana. Wow... It was all served on a big banana leaf. Did I mention that there were no walls in this place? It was all open air like. Not like, it WAS all open air.
  • While in the hotel room getting psyched up to bungee, I saw a 50 cent video called 'pimp'. That guy's a musical genius no matter how you slice it. [dead pan]
  • I'm learning a tiny bit of spanish. Emphases on tiny.
Now I'm just killing time until my two friends arrive. Tomorrow we assemble our bikes and they bus us to the start of the first stage (a 2.5 hour drive to the coast). The stages start at like 5 and 6 am! Yikes... But I'm guessing that's because it gets dark so early here (5:30 every day) and because mere mortals will take quite some time to finish each stage. I'd guess we're looking at 6-10 hours on the road each day. The wining times from last year ranged between 5-7 hours.

Hopefully I will be able to enjoy the scenery instead of just suffering. I got a disposable camera - one for each day - so I won't have to risk toasting my digital when I slip and fall in a ditch in the jungle trails.

And hopefully the next hotel will have free internet access too. That is one thing that is MUCH more expensive here than in the states.

Till then.

Cheers,

Martin

Day 0
Today we woke up at a leisurely 6 so that we could breakfast by 7 and then assemble our bicycles and put them on the truck by 8:30 (we were getting bused from the hotel in San Jose to the start on the Pacific coast). The parking lot behind the hotel was filled with bike boxes and people fretting when they realized that their disk brakes were rubbing and they didn't know how to center the caliper... My friends and I got our bikes together pretty quickly and then got horizontal in the grass to nibble on some food and relax as the temperature slowly started to rise.

ASIDE - it's a weird thing being so close to the equator. Each day is from 5:30 - 5:30. You wake up and it's warm. At about 9 or 10 it's hot. At noon, depending on if you are in the sun or shade, it's very hot. At some point in the afternoon it usually rains and gets somewhat overcast and then by 5:30 it's dark again.

With our bikes on one truck and all the riders on passenger buses, we headed off to the Pacific coast. It took about 2.5 hours and we stopped at one little food stand in a village for lunch. I love the food here! Loads of fresh tropical fruit, rice and beans, great vegetables and good seafood.

Our first night was spent in a hotel on the beach. This place was huge! It had a big pool, expansive open-air dining (a theme throughout this country) and lots of waterfront property. Did I mention we were close to the equator...? While my friends took a little 'shake-down' spin on their bikes, I hit the surf. Man, the ocean is warm enough that it doesn't really even register when you get in it. You know how you sort of brace yourself when a wave hits because you're trying to prep for the shock of the cold? Not an issue here. You just march in and swim out. The swells were about 3-5' and the bottom was soft sand so I played a while! Then it was off to a great dinner and early to bed. In an effort to give riders as much time as possible, the starts were scheduled to go off right at dawn each day.

Day 1
So, this is the closest thing to an adventure race that I have ever done. "I keep running out of superlatives." That's what I have been telling all my friends anyway. It's going to be hard to describe La Ruta using adjectives so instead I'll also throw in some statistics and if you have ever encountered any of these numbers yourself, you will have an inkling of what the race was like.

Here are some stats for ya'll:

  • La Ruta is a three-day mountain bike race that goes from the Pacific coast to the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica.
  • 350 people started this event.
  • 222 were able to finish all three days.
  • Another 33 were able to finish two out of three days (that means almost 100 people dropped out for you that are math-challenged).
  • Day 1 took me almost 11 hours.
  • Day 2 took me about 6 hours.
  • Day 3 took me about 8 hours.
  • I ended up in 130th place (25:29:19) about 10 HOURS behind the winner (15:43:19).
  • Every day had sections of 90+ degree temperatures with no shade for hours at a time.
  • Every day had sections of 90+ temperatures with radical humidity (but tons of shade - although it didn't matter when you were in these sauna-like conditions).
  • Every day had sections of mud that was over one foot deep, river crossings, trail you had to hike down as well as up (because it was too steep or too treacherous to ride) and screaming fast descents on trail, gravel road, pavement and full-on rock gardens.
  • Everyone got burned. You'd apply SPF 30+ like three or four times throughout the day ('waterproof' of course) and you'd sweat it off in minutes.
  • Every day I consumed between 300-800 oz of various fluids. I had a 100 oz CamelBak and a bottle and drank tons at each rest stop. And I just barely broke even.
  • We rode along railroad tracks. That's right, right in-between the tracks and over the railway ties. Sometimes the ties were more-or-less covered in very coarse gravel and sometimes the ties were about 5" tall. There must have been about 15 km of this.
  • People were using up a set of brake pads every day. If you didn't carry spares with you, you sometimes could not continue.
  • With all the mud, river crossings and water, you had to lubricate your chain about 5-10 times each day. ALL the 'specialty' bike lubes were totally inadequate and got washed off in an instant. True multi-purpose oil or just plain lightweight motor oil was required to keep your chain from sucking and rendering your bike totally unrideable. If you didn't carry lube with you, you were doomed.
Right then; the alarm went off at 3 so that we could breakfast by 4 and start riding by 5. True, this was before the sun rose but this was supposed to be the longest day of all and I guess extra time was deemed prudent.

What a surreal feeling being in this small beach town, lined up with 350 other racers totally blocking the one main street, everyone nervous and fully loaded with gear waiting for the starting gun to go off as a huge motor caravan idles in anticipation and people shout in megaphones and support people mill around. All at 5 am.

Bang! Off we go. With tons of whistle blowing and the roar of engines from all the support motorcycles and cars, we ride out of town.

Being a cyclist with a road background and thinking that this is going to be a 'riding' event (little did I know...), one friend and I start to work our way towards the front of the field by leapfrogging from group to group. No big deal, we're just working a tad more than about half of the racers.

ASIDE - we had a pre-race meeting the night before and were told that each stage would have five checkpoints. From the start to 1 on the first day was described as a 'warm-up' and then it was supposed to get hard as we hit the first major climb between 1 and 2.

Cool I think to myself, I'll move up as much as I can and then just pace myself once I hit checkpoint 1. Ha! Within a couple of miles, the pavement turns to dirt and another couple of miles later, the dirt tips up.

It's a bit disconcerting when you are on the 'warm-up' and can't ride anymore. All of a sudden, everyone is pushing their bikes because it's just too steep. And then it gets wet and muddy. So muddy that you are sometimes doing the 'one step forward, two steps back' thing as you slide all over the mountain. So muddy that at times you needed to carry your bike because if you tried to push it, it would accumulate so much mud it would turn into an anchor. Thank goodness for the river crossings.

River crossings were a mixed blessing. Sure, they 1) cooled you off and 2) let you rinse your drivetrain but this drivetrain rinsing (a recurring theme throughout this event) meant that any kind of lubricant that was on your chain was now flowing down the mountain and no longer doing your bike any good. And it's funny how the mind refuses to accept certain things when it's being stressed by other stuff. At times, I was riding along, getting chain suck with every third pedal stroke and still refusing to accept that I had to get off and add lube.

Finally, I arrived at checkpoint 1. Man, was I bushed. It was quite demoralizing thinking about the remainder of the stage at this point. I guess I was just too dumb or stubborn to really mull it over in my mind too much. If I had, I might have quite right then and there. At checkpoint 1, I made my first mistake by not topping off my CamelBak. Up to this point, I had drunk maybe half of my 100 oz and was tired but not beaten. So off I went thinking that surely, checkpoint 2 could not take as long to reach as 1. Dumb, dumb Martin.

Somewhere between 1 and 2, there was a creek crossing and my friend and I asked the guy on the motorcycle how long it was to the next checkpoint. "Just 10 minutes" was the reply. Cool, no worries I thought, I can limp home and do this. My friend was feeling a bit better and went ahead. Not long after leaving checkpoint 1, we emerged from the rain forest and the road just kept climbing. Suddenly, I was out of water. Not long after, I stopped sweating. A bit after that, I started getting concerned. 10 minutes had come and gone many times over and still no relief was in sight. Finally, my chain sucked so hard it was truly lodged and there was no WAY I was getting it out with my hands. Trouble was, in my weakened mental state, I struggled with the damn thing for like 20 minutes before I realized it was hopeless.

If it was not for the ATV that showed up with a cooler of ice and water bottles, they would probably have had to pull my sorry, dehydrated ass from the course. Never in my life have I downed three entire bottles and not felt bloated in the least. After recovering somewhat, I realized I had to break my chain, pull it out of the jam and re-join it. It worked; and I was back in business with water to boot.

At checkpoint 2 (which was just after a river crossing), they again had high-pressure water jets to clean off your bike. And this time they also had oil. And I'm talking REAL oil from a metal can with a pump on it. Yeah baby, my drivetrain was smooth as a baby's bottom now. So smooth in fact that I carried my bike through the next couple of water crossings in order to protect the precious oil.

At checkpoint 3 I met my friend again who was looking like I felt. He had been there a while and as I related my sad state of affairs and mechanical woes, we just looked at each other and marveled that we had only gone just less than half of the FIRST day so far.

Other stage 1 highlights include rescuing two people that were incapacitated with cramps (I gave them some of my electrolyte tablets), laughing/crying about that bastard who told us it was only 10 minutes to the next checkpoint (it took riders no less than 45 and some much more), a dirt descent that had been hosed down by the local kids for 48 hours in advance so as to provide them with more entertainment as racers slipped and fell (they did), some fantastic descending on dirt roads that were rutted to the point that you would hit both pedals if you slipped in one of them, plenty more back breaking climbs on dirt and pavement and a finish that had been pushed back about 6 km from the original location just in case you happen to be riding with a veteran and were getting your hopes up...

Thank goodness the last few 100 m of each stage (including today) were downhill. Today we descended into a town on pavement and turned into a grassy area and were finally able to keel over and stop riding.

Lastly - once you finished, you still had to clean your bike, lube the drivetrain again, bring it over to the bike truck, shower, hydrate and eat. Maybe not in that order but it all had to be done by the time your bus left for the race hotel that evening. And oh yeah, you had to carry your bag to the bus yourself. At times this in itself seemed a bit overwhelming. Needless to say, most people were asleep by 9 on the night of the first stage.

And that includes me, good night.

Day 2
Today they let us sleep an extra hour so it was up at 4 so you could eat by 5 and start the race by 6. This assumes your bicycle is in perfect working condition of course and that all of your bottles are already mixed up and you have your ride food prepared, etc... And since you had to get bussed to the start of stage 2, factor in a little extra time for that too. Plain old sleep was turning into a precious commodity.

At the start, everyone was swapping stage 1 stories. It seems that the 10 minute warning guy had fooled a lot of riders... Most people had some mechanical problem by now or some spectacular wreck in the mud to relate. I forgot to mention that at the start of stage 1, my friends and I saw the ONE guy that looked like he was wholly unprepared for this event. Let's call him 'Detroit' (he was from Detroit, Michigan). Detroit showed up at the start on his $400 Giant mountain bike, complete with factory installed reflectors, toe clips, running shoes and a cotton t-shirt. He topped off his ensemble with a pack that contained way more than mine and an additional hip bag with a GPS and loads of other toys. I cautiously asked him if he had been training for this ride and he replied, "Yeah..." There is only so much you can do for others and 30 minutes prior to the start of the 'hardest mountain bike race in the world' this was all I had time for. At the start of stage 2 I saw Detroit and asked him how it had gone and if he had finished stage 1. Turns out he never made it to checkpoint 2. We're talking checkpoint TWO people, that's TWO OUT OF FIVE! They hauled him out of the rain forest IN THE DARK. He got back to the hotel at 3 am. It simply boggles the mind trying to figure out what he was doing there in the first place. In case you were wondering, he 'decided' not to ride today and rest instead. He was going to try and ride on day 3 tho.

That's not to say really experienced riders didn't have problems. They had IV bags hooked up to more than one person after stage 1. Some would recover to ride today and some would quit. And I heard about some that already had broken bikes and could not continue for mechanical reasons.

Stage 2 was supposed to be the easiest stage. If you scroll all the way back up to the top of this page, you'll see that it is the shortest overall distance. But you'll also notice that it shoots right from about 2000' all the way to over 9000'. Today was supposed to be the one day where we might encounter cold temperatures and/or cold rain or maybe even snow. In preparation, I took along my arm and knee warmers, a wind vest and my new, super deluxe adventX shell. [Thanks guys, this thing rocks.]

Surprisingly, both of my friends and I had recovered remarkably well after day 1. I guess we did all the right things and I actually felt good (although a bit cautious) as we left town. We rode out of town and right away got into some rollers. I was up the road a bit with this English guy and some Columbians and on every damn incline, the Columbians would stand and just float up the hill. After a couple of these, I had to let them go. Within about 2 more miles, the road seriously tipped up. End of story. For the next 3 hours, you were climbing in your granny gear. At first there were some dirt sections and then it was just this paved wall.

Funny how climbing a paved road in your lowest gear on a mountain bike - for the tech-heads, I had a 24x32 - is so much more memorable than if you were on your road bike.

But I still felt good. I caught the English guy and even some of the Columbians again by the top. My friend was feeling even better and ended up passing me.

The most memorable moment of the climb for me was coming into checkpoint 1. Imagine this loose, rocky climb that heads right up the middle of this field, is about 300 m long and is so steep that you could just ride it if you made no mistakes. About 50' ahead of me was this Costa Rican rider and next to him was this older Toyota Land Cruiser. One of the small, Jeep-looking ones. The guy from Costa Rica was just barely riding the climb and the Toyota was in low/low crawling along beside him. On the roof of the Toyota was a camera operator filming the rider. It was right out of some xxxtreme movie.

From there it was just a matter of staying within oneself to the top. We had all been told that the top could be cold and that the descent was quite treacherous and steep. Since I seem to be able to pace myself better on pavement, I made it to the top in pretty good shape considering. I was not dehydrated, I did not need any oil for my drivetrain and I had only needed to walk the unrideable sections that everyone else had walked. And we got lucky, it was warm and dry! So, I topped off my CamelBak, ate something, pulled on my full-finger gloves and let it rip.

Man, right away we're descending down this road that in some former life was probably paved with cobble stones. The rocks were big. Between fist and head size. My friends and I were all on full-suspension bikes and so most downhills were major opportunities to make up time on other riders. This particular opportunity lasted about 3 hours.

I could go on for days about all the whoops of joy that came out of my mouth while I fell like a stone from 9000' back down to 2000' and all the close calls I had and all the riders that I passed but I'll just relate four things.

1 - Half way down there was a nasty climb. Ouch! If you look at the profile, you won't see it and that's because like so much of the course every year, it got added in at the last minute and no one knew about it. And it was up this farm road that was absolutely greasy sloppy wet with mud. Totally slippery. So many places in La Ruta were about screaming down some hill in your big ring and then grabbing both shifters and cramming your chain into the granny as fast as you can. Man, I need a lower gear if I ever go back...!

2 - There was this big puddle in the road that we had to cross (read: ride through). There was one route along the left side that looked sorta ridable (without hitting the center and maybe disappearing in a who knows how deep hole of water) so I took it. The puddle stretched from one side of the road to the other and there was a fence on both sides of the road so there was no avoiding this water hole. As I hit the water, I must have slightly misjudged my line because I bounced off of something and slowly came to a stop. Not wanting to fall to the right (into the heart of the puddle), I fell left into the fence. Turns out it was a barbed wire fence. Martin draws first blood. Not too bad, a little rip in the left sleeve of my jersey and a couple of scratches on my left arm. In fact, I was laughing at how silly I must have looked falling into the fence and then jumping up to get off the fence. And I was having so much fun on the descent anyway that this scratch was actually kinda cool. I mean shoot, you can't do this ride and not have any injuries, right? A little blood was way macho.

3 - I fell. Okay, I fell twice. The first one was no big deal. My suspension fork is old and really stinks by today's standards. My riding has surpassed it for sure. I was going into a corner hard, trying to brake and turn at the same time and it just pushed out on me. Down I went in the dirt. This woman rode up and asked if I was all right. Yep, not a big deal, this was just another scratch on my knee. Now I had these really badass looking rivulets of blood on my left forearm and my right shin but I still felt fine. I jumped back on, passed the woman and proceeded to pick it up again. No worries. The next fall was at speed. Lots of the downhill was on this rock garden/old cobbled farm road kind of surface. You were bouncing along really trusting your suspension to deal with the surface. It may have been my fork again but since I'm no Hans Rey, it could have been anything really. So down I went, this time in spectacular fashion. As I was lying there on my back, this (same) woman rode up and asked me if I was all right. I had the wind totally knocked out of me and could not answer for about 10 seconds. After I could breathe, I decided that nothing was broken and tried to stand up. I walked around for a bit and then figured I better ride again before I got 1) super stiff or 2) really scared and slowed way down so off I went again. And just so you know, I passed that woman back right away! That's right, Martin is cool and don't you forget it...

[In this fall I cracked my helmet, crushed a finger and gave myself the biggest charlie horse I have ever had. Six weeks later (which is when I'm adding this text), my left quad (the one I hit on the rocks) is still much tighter than my right and it hurts to stretch, I have a new helmet and I finally got my finger (which never seemed to heal) x-ray'd. It's broken.]

4 - The steepest part of the descent was through these coffee plantations. It was essentially a gravel road at this point and you were just flying down the mountain, drifting around corners and occasionally dodging trucks full of beans and bean pickers that were headed up the hill. At first it was just pretty and then I started to notice the poverty. Man, you don't make much money picking coffee beans. Juan Valdez in those coffee ads was always so happy, I just didn't get it. [deadpan]

This finish was just great. It kept getting smoother and faster and finally flattened out on this hardpack dirt road and you had to really grab a handful of brakes to not miss the finish line. Ahh... finish line. Today was literally either up or down. And the interesting thing was, both sections took about the same amount of time. I guess that speaks to the technical difficulty of the descent. Or the length! Holy cow, I have never in my life descended that much in the dirt all at once. Many riders' hands were bruised and sore after today.

ASIDE - not sure if I have put in my plug for fully hydraulic brakes yet so let me just do that. Through all the mud, water, speed that we had endured so far, my Hayes hydraulic disk brakes were champs! Silky smooth, great modulation and rock solid. A total life saver. Literally I'm sure (see day 3 for details).

Tonight we got bussed to a little town. The race had booked about every room it had to offer and there were six or eight riders in every hotel. One thing stood out in our room. The shower had this insta-hot shower head. The whole building was this huge remodel that looked like bits of building tacked onto some small, original structure (just like ALL the buildings down here). All the hallways were 3/4 height and stairs connected all the different levels. So, this shower head was probably installed so that they would not have to get some mega hot water heater and pay to have gobs of hot water when the hotel was empty. It was this 'on-demand' hot water head like you can buy for you sink. I got in the shower, turned the switch to 'caliente' and got it. first of all, caliente was only tepid but I could live with that. The shower head was directly overhead. [how cool, my next bathroom will have an overhead shower - I love them] at one point I must have stood up a little too much and bumped the head. Ouch! What was that, it felt like an electrical shock. I reached up (feeling for all the world like Wile E. Coyote jumping on a jammed trap door) and touched the head with my finger. Sure enough, I got shocked again. Nice... After finishing my shower by turning off the water at every opportunity and only turning it on to rinse, my friends got back and did the same. One of them noticed that of the three wires running out of the head, only two were connected! The ground was flopping around. Nothing like live electricity in your shower I always say.

We found out that today two people broke their collar bones on the descent, one more got trucked away in an ambulance and a few more quit because it was just too rough. Welcome to day two of La Ruta. Thanks for playing.

[I'm rereading this and to some it might sound like I'm embellishing a bit for effect. Sure, I might think I'm a bit funnier than others think I am but this was a hard ride. I don't think I'm exaggerating at all when it comes to perceived effort or conditions. Just ask anyone that knows anyone that has done this.]

Day 3
Sore hands... After having my bike pressure washed countless times on day 1 and then not overhauling the suspension fork, it seems that my front travel has been reduced to about 1". Kind of a drag. I'm not sure if it happened during the second stage or overnight but now I have to be a bit cautious as there is lots of descending on dirt and rocks scheduled for today.

It's worth a quick note to mention that everything else on my bike is working very well. When I put this thing together long ago, I placed a heavy emphasis on functionality and not necessarily on getting components that were super light weight. That horrendous chain suck I had on day 1 was due (in part) to a bent tooth on my small chainring. I found it, straightened it (steel ring), and have had no trouble since.

Today we were promised more mud, a narrow suspension bridge, a big descent, some railroad tracks and then a ride along the beach onto the finish. After a slightly delayed start, we headed off.

The first climb was on pavement. A couple of rollers and then it was up, up and away as we climbed out of valley our town was in. Again, there were sections where I was in my second lowest gear here. Man, this was just the start... I once again found myself riding with these locals that weighed all of 120 lb soaking wet. On every steep section they would pull away from me and on every flat or downhill section I'd pull them back. But it was MUCH too early to play these games, what was I doing!

Finally, we turned left off the road and into the dirt. First we were on a narrow road that was pretty easy to ride on. It descended gently for a while and then we hit the 'field'. At least I think it was some sort of cow pasture/field. We saw some animals and there were fences to keep in livestock. At first the trail just sort of got really muddy. After a 100 yards, it was too muddy to ride and you were hiking your bike through goo that was 12-18" deep depending on where you stepped. Then the slope steepened. Then we crossed a stream. Then we had to hike UP in this mud. By now everyone was carrying their bikes so as to protect the drivetrain from the slop. Not only that, I was not going to give 10 extra pounds of mud a free ride up any hill... I saw one guy lose his shoe. I bet they only had Velcro straps. Poor sap. His foot went into the glop and only his sock came out. I could feel the mud trying to liberate me from my shoes and just hoped that my buckles were tight enough.

After the mud, we got to the suspension bridge and were finally able to ride again. Now imagine being totally coated in greasy, clay-like slime and then getting on a wood bridge and trying to ride. That's right, skating rink! One guy went down right in front of me and I was doing the loosy-goosy for a few feet until it got a bit drier on the bridge.

Once across the bridge, it was time to climb. We were on this fairly smooth dirt road but it just would not stop. I had looked at the profile for today and did not recall any huge climbs but this must have slipped under the radar. Or maybe it was huge -1% or something so they did not tell anyone. All I know is it went on and on and on. And towards the top, it got steeper. I had to stop once and just catch my breath. The last section was a wall. And as usual, the first checkpoint was right at the top of the wall. As I was drinking, eating and refilling my bottle and CamelBak and wondering how in the world I was going to finish this stage, my friend shows up. Right then, time to go I guess.

The details are a bit hazy by this time but I recall many super descents, one more back breaking climb where we had to push our bikes the majority of the way and me begging my friend not to ditch me. To his credit, he didn't. and I knew that if I could only make it to the flats and the pavement on the bottom the of the descent, I'd get a second wind.

Some highlights of the middle third were:

  • Absolutely scary descents through tiny towns on 'paved' roads that would all of a sudden stop, turn to gravel and you'd be hurtling through this rock garden at 30+ mph or whatever.
  • This one left hand corner that we came screaming into (the road just fell down the mountain). From a distance, you could not really tell there was a corner at all. By the time we could make out the corner, we were doing 44 mph (my friend had a cyclometer on his bike). It was touch and go whether or not to skid the tires. We had to grab handfuls of brake and even so, we both went around the corner with our left foot out of the pedal skirting the edge of the road. And of course, it turned to gravel in the apex of the corner too. Nice...
  • That damn climb. It was so hot and dry and steep and man was that hard. Push the bike, gasp for breath, push the bike, drink some really warm water from your CamelBak, gasp for breath, push the bike some more...
ASIDE - if it were not for locals on day 1 and 3 hosing down the riders, I think I'd not have made it. all along the course on those two days, people would be standing on the road outside of their house with a garden hose or buckets or whatever and they'd offer to wet you down. On stage 1 in particular, the first time I encountered this it was just a solo woman, in the middle of nowhere. An 'angel' as my friend described her. In addition to being soccer crazy here in Costa Rica, they love cycling and tons of people were out supporting this race.

Once over the top (checkpoint 3), we were told it was a paved descent down to the coast. Hallelujah, was it ever. This road just went down and down and down. And it was so straight; you could see what was coming up for miles. I was in a tuck for so long my back got sore and I actually sat up for a bit to relieve the stress. But what FUN. And it let me digest the food I had eaten at the last checkpoint. Good thing.

At the bottom of the descent, we turned right around this tour bus and wham, we were on the railroad tracks. Let me take just a minute to describe these tracks. If you have never ridden on tracks it may seem like no big deal. And at times it was no big deal. But at other times it was crazy. The ties under the tracks were concrete and sometimes the gaps between them were filled in with coarse gravel and at times they were not. These later times the ties stood out about 4-6" above the top of the gravel and you had to just ride over these things. They were spaced about 2' apart or so which made for non-stop bumpity bumpity bump.

And we had to cross countless railway bridges. Note that these bridges were not designed for people or cars or bikes, just trains. We had to cautiously step from tie to tie and if you were coherent enough, it was best to walk your bike on the track itself to avoid the awkwardness of dragging it across these huge gaps in the surface.

As tough as it was, I finally felt good again on these tracks. My friend and I were on full-suspension bikes (did I mention that full-suspension absolutely rules?) and we made up all kinds of time on the hardtails. They had to gingerly pick their way through this mess and we just rode right over it. I bet we passed about 30+ people on these sections.

In this part of Costa Rica, just north of Limon, the people are not so well off. It made the coffee plantations from stage 2 look sorta rich. All the housing was so run-down and the people dressed practically in rags. And yet, all the kids would line the roads and hold out their hands and you could high-five about eight of them at one ride-by. How cool.

We had picked up this one guy - let's call him 'Terry' - along the way. He was not a happy camper. He had fallen on the first railway bridge and split his lip. And he was tired. On one section of gravel, we pulled away and decided to just keep going. This was no time to be saddled with a crummy attitude. We needed all the positive energy we could get.

[It turns out that this 'Terry' ended up reading my La Ruta journal... Good thing he really IS a nice guy or I'd feel like a total dork and still be trying to remove my foot from my mouth.]

After we finally left the tracks, it was time for some more asphalt. For some reason, this was a fast section. I guess I was still feeling okay and we had the slightest of tail winds so off we went, full-on rotating paceline and all. Weird how you can be at your limit in the dirt and then feel pretty good on the pavement. My friend said later that he had felt pretty good in the dirt and then under a bit of pressure on the road. Go figure...

After the road, we hit the beach. This was the home stretch. YEAH! It amounted to about 15 km of this flat, dirt road along the shore. The road was lined with enormous coconut trees and at one point, this falling coconut made a loud noise as it impacted the trail next to my friend. One of the hazards you just don't have to worry about in Seattle... And now, I was feeling like I was at my limit again and my friend was looking pretty good. Sheesh. Usually when I can smell the barn, I can dial it up a notch. Not today. Not even close. On a positive note, we had caught this guy from CA and he was in a super good mood. It was a real pleasure to ride with him. The three of us rode along, cracked lame jokes and talked about all sorts of stuff except for how long we still had to ride.

I must say, the finish of each day was just super. It was always downhill and very easy. Today we turned left into a beach park and rode under this big, inflatable arch right onto the beach at Limon. There were tons of people applauding and eating and drinking and swimming. It was sort of surreal showing up here, like you had just come in from the desert and landed in some tropical resort. I felt sort of misplaced.

This guy that had been filming us along the way walked up to my friend and I on the beach, stuck the camera in my face and said, "So, are you going to come back next year...?" Man, if you ask me now (or even now), the answer is a big, fat no. That said, the body forgets pain all too quickly. Good thing too I suppose, I can't imagine any woman having a second child otherwise. So, if I had company of the quality that I did this year and if I trained properly, who knows. Never say never, right?

We got cleaned up, loaded our stuff on the truck and bus, had some food and hung out for a bit. Just when we were feeling sorta tough and almost able to carry on a normal conversation again, Brett Wolfe crossed the line. In the dark. For those of you that don't know, Brett used to work at REI. He is a very skilled mountain biker and rides over loads of stuff that I have to walk. He's been racing for several years and has recently started doing more of these extreme events. And he only has one leg.

What can I say - when I think back to all of the places where I was barely able to hike/push my bike up hills or the mud I had to wade through or the river crossings or the railway bridges - wow. This guy did it all. With no help from anyone else. How long did it take him? Only 4.5 hours longer than Martin. And you know who finished ahead of me? This guy on a single-speed bike. And then this tandem finished. Some people are just nuts. Truly, everyone that finished this event deserves an over-sized attaboy award.

Not to be outdone, one of my friends had BOTH his front and rear suspension fail at the top of the climb. And when I mean fail, I mean it was totally rigid. He had to ride the entire descent, the railroad tracks, everything after checkpoint 3 on a fully non-suspended bike. This guy is amazing. I don't think I have that much strength of will. Heck, I was crying about my 1" of front travel... I should drop and make myself do 20 pushups. Except I'm too lazy.

Post-Ride Comments
After completing this race, Martin has learned a few things. Well, maybe a few dozen but here are the highlights:

  • To finish this kind of event you need to train. Hello, 2-hour workouts just don't cut it. I should have been out there doing 6-7 hour rides. [sigh] Sadly, this time of year in Seattle that's sort of hard to do; especially after a long summer of riding, being a single parent, blah, blah, blah. But I'll shut up. Robert Blake said it best as Beretta, "Don't do the crime if you can't do the time." You just can't fake it in La Ruta.
  • Don't wear anything white. Unless you really prefer brown and were just looking for an expensive, exhausting method of changing the color of your wardrobe.
  • Unless you like doing stuff like living in a cave alone or going on multi-day hikes alone or just being alone, do this event with some friends. And make it more than one because more than likely, one of you will not finish so you'll need a backup to help you through this.
  • Go with the flow. You really have no choice. If there was one thing that really stood out it's that this race is about dealing with adversity and about 90% of everything the race director told us was absolutely not true. If you are the type of person that gets pissed off if some little detail is not how it was described or the food stop does not serve exactly what you were promised or you throw up your hands when your bike malfunctions, save yourself a lot of grief and stay home. Some examples are:
    • The promised 'warm up' from the start of day one to checkpoint 1 was totally brutal.
    • The 10 minutes that the support motorcycle told us it would take to get to the next checkpoint took about 45.
    • Even after telling the race organizers repeatedly about an email address change, one of my friends never got ANY of the roughly 10 notes that got sent out by the organizers. Some of which were absolutely crucial to showing up at the right place and time to even start this thing.
    • One day prior to leaving, the race organizers claimed to have been infected by a virus that wiped out everything on a PC. Including all our travel arrangements and hotel bookings, etc.
    • My promised bus that was going to take me from the airport to the hotel never showed up.
    • We (my two friends and I) had decided to all stay in one room so that the three of us could help each other out as much as possible. And we even got confirmation from the organizers that this was fine. Not once were we all booked in the same room.
    • At the official race hotel, there was no trace of signage or anything telling people where to go or what to do. It was sheer luck (okay, a little skill... but I'm trying to embellish a bit here) that we even got on the bus that drove us to the start. It left earlier than advertised and no one was told anything. Can you imagine missing that bus and not even being able to start this thing after flying yourself and your bike down here?
    • The 'pre-race' meeting had three different start times depending on whether or not you read the race flyer, talked to the organizers or talked to the riders.
    • The start of day two was delayed one hour about 30 seconds from the official start. By the lead organizer himself. 45 minutes later riders were sent on their way. One of the top placed women had decided to use these last minutes to go to the bathroom one more time. She had to chase hard for a long time just to catch the last rider...
    • Since the start of day three was delayed as well, riders were finishing in the dark. No lights on the bikes, practically no street lights and no lights on the beach or in the dirt or on the railroad tracks, that's for sure. Deal with it.
  • Some things you WILL need are: 1) spare brake pads - a set for every day and 2) oil. And not that sissy, specialty shop stuff that you buy from your local fancy pants high-end bicycle store, just bring some three-in-one oil. Or 40-weight or Phil Wood Tenacious. Nothing else will work.
  • Spare gloves and shoes for every day or you better not be squeamish about putting on damp stuff time after time after time.
  • If you plan on taking pictures during the race, make it as convenient as possible to get at your camera. Then make it even more convenient. I had a camera in my CamelBak and the effort of taking off my CamelBak, getting out my camera, putting it away and putting my CamelBak back on was just too much to comprehend at times. Like 90% of the time. One of my friends had a waterproof disposable in a pouch attached to the shoulder strap of his CamelBak. That seemed reasonable.
If anyone has any questions about this event or just wants more details, feel free to contact me directly at martin [at] criminale [dot] com.

PICTURES - You can also view what pictures I did take here. And here are some pictures from one of my friends that had the waterproof disposable. And here are some official race photos of the three of us. If you want more, here are official photos from 2001, 2002 and day 2 of 2003. And some of the best pictures of all were taken by this guy John who was at La Ruta with his wife to support a friend of theirs. Way to go John!

Velo News covered this race in 2001 (when Tinker Juarez entered it) and not surprisingly, their description of the difficulty is right on par with what I had to say. You can read their coverage here.

One guy (Doug) who's bacon we saved on day 1 with Endurolytes sent me his summary from his heart rate monitor/cyclometer which you can get here. Well, okay, maybe we didn't really save his bacon, he did have to have several IVs after day 1. But hey, he bounced back in fine form.

Another guy (Terry) that we rode with for a bit on day 3 wrote his own summary of the event. You can view that here.

In closing, my smartass comment at the top of this page, "yeah, whatever" should read, YES, IT SURE AS HELL IS. Of course, that's with the benefit of hindsight. Always a plus.

Official results

Thanks for reading,

Martin

some Joe, Martin, Terry, Vince

click for larger image



"I'm no walker."
Ernest Hemingway
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